Sorry guys. I actually posted the pictures of detailing my ride a few weeks ago but I didn't get a chance to do a write-up. Anyways, let me start.
I didn't really plan on doing my car as I had already planned to do Stoop's Yellow Spa S2k. However, he had to cancel due to last minute commitments, so I'm assuming that the next car I'll be doing would be his. Anyways, lets continue....
Well, here's a few snapshots of my car early in the morning. I actually clayed and washed the car the night before (with GLO) to remove any remaining waxes.
By the way, I spent 2 days doing the car by myself. My cronies were too busy during that week...

Soaked the bronze shoes with FX Wheel Cleaner first. Waited a few minutes, then brushed the inner wells and corners to loosen all that good stuff (brake pad residue).

Since dirty rims are a pet peeve of mine....I had to make sure my wheels were extra clean. So, back to my good friend GLO, and the rims were cleaned again.

You guys have seen it before....all the creases and cracks are cleaned with a diluted APC. This is to ensure all dirt/ wax residue is dissolved before we start working on the car.

And so began the wash routine A Viking Microfiber Chenile Wash Mitt was used with....YES .....GLO again...... The reason why GLO was used again and again is because it has a more abrasive cleaning solution to it, compared to your regular shampoo.

AFTER WASHING THE CAR
The real Nighthawk Black under flourescent lighting.
Rear Left Passenger Door

Below the Door Handles

Rear Left Passenger Door

Trunk View

More Trunk View Pictures:

Rear Right Passenger Door

My super swirled cob webbed hood


Another View of the hood (super swirled up right?)

My favorite angles - the Front fenders

Front Bumper View

And so, after months of hiatus the old buddy is out from the cave again. Flex 3401 VRG....
Shown here with the yellow cutting pad by Lake Country.

And some new chemicals to play around with. These areMothers re-formulated professional products, released earlier in 2008. After months of waiting, I finally get a chance to play around with them. I used the below 2 combinations to prep the surface.
Just some theory here:
- When scratches appear on your paint, it actually means that these scratches are deeper than the paint's surface or the clearcoat.
- Scratches are extremely evident on darker colored cars compared to blacks.
- In order to remove the scratches, you would first need to flatten the paint - so that the clearcoat is actually level with the surface of the scratches. (Do I make any sense here?)
So, to do that, you would first need
- A compound solution
- A polisher that is strong enough to do the job
- The proper polishing pads (For compounds, we would use the cutting pads)
The Mothers Heavy Cutting Compound 81232. (Removes 1200 grit wetsanding marks)

And the Mothers Foam Pad Polish 83432. (Used to remove swirls after compounding work)






























